Mar 13 2010
All eyes on South Africa This summer’s World Cup promises to be spectacular, and not just on the soccer field
I am driving along Johannesburg’s William Nicol Highway on a warm, bright Friday afternoon. The sun is shining on the gleaming Porsches, BMWs, Mercedes and Ferraris, multicoloured symbols of this city’s extraordinary affluence. I have spent an hour with Danny Jordaan, the man in charge of South Africa’s organizing committee for soccer’s World Cup this summer, and he has filled me with tales of optimism and joy.
Like all patriotic South Africans, he easily fell into a eulogy about this beautiful country’s great assets, this “beloved country,” as the South African author Alan Paton would have it.
It has eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Cape Floral Region, one of the smallest and richest of the world’s six floral regions with more than 9,500 plant species thriving in a narrow coastal strip, and the Cradle of Humankind in Sterkfontein, where the earliest known hominid fossils were found. It has wine-tasting tours in the Cape, microlight trips in KwaZulu-Natal, shark diving in Gansbaai, the most dramatic golf hole anywhere, and one of the most diverse populations of wild animals on the African continent in Kruger National Park. In short, this will be sports tourism with a multitude of extras.
According to Jordaan, whose serious demeanour befits a former anti-apartheid activist and parliamentarian, South Africa is perfectly poised to stage a smooth, successful and relatively crime-free World Cup.
Crime, of course, is on everyone’s mind, particularly as South Africa is second only to Colombia in world murder statistics. Crime and event security, Jordaan told me emphatically, were two entirely different issues, “but I can assure you that crime in South Africa is falling, and we have invested 1.3 billion rand ($180 million) in event security.”
As the World Cup host, South Africa has increased the police force by 41,000 members and has instituted a tough policy to deter would-be carjackers, muggers, armed robbers and murderers.
For all the concerns about safety and security and whether the infrastructure can cope with the forecast arrival of more than 400,000 soccer fans, I expect South Africa to stage a massively successful and extremely enjoyable World Cup.
In the 20 years since Nelson Mandela made those first steps to freedom, this country has staged a string of international sporting events, including the Rugby World Cup in 1994 (the subject of a Clint Eastwood-directed film) and the Cricket World Cup in 2003. All have been hugely successful, smoothly organized and well policed.
That there is nowhere else in sub-Saharan Africa capable of staging an event on the scale of the football World Cup is a compliment to a country whose thoroughly modern cities are connected by air, road and rail networks that would not be out of place in Europe or North America.
These networks take you deep into territories occupied by the many nations that make up modern South Africa - into KwaZulu-Natal, the home of the Zulus; into the Eastern Cape, home of Mandela’s Xhosa people; into the far reaches of Limpopo province where Shangaans live alongside scatterings of Transvaal Afrikaners; and into the Cape hinterland where Huguenots, Malays, Cape Coloureds, Cape Afrikaners and any number of African tribes live side by side.
South Africa has 11 official languages, a reflection of the diversity of its citizens more than an expression of the complex bureaucracy that emerged when the so-called Rainbow Nation was born. So, it requires some patience and perseverance to begin to comprehend the socio-political hues of the people you encounter.
The wild beauty of this vast country is more accessible. Extraordinary landscapes are within easy reach of all the major soccer venues. From Cape Town, some of the world’s most beautiful wine lands (Stellenbosch, Franschhoek) are an hour away by road, as are perhaps the best places in the world to view whales and sharks (Gansbaai, Hermanus). A few hours inland from Durban are the Drakensberg mountains, not only beautiful but fascinating for anyone interested in Anglo-Zulu history, for it was not far from here (Isandlwana, Rorke’s Drift) that British soldiers fought great battles against Cetshwayo’s Zulu army. And a short light-aircraft flight from Johannesburg is Kruger National Park, home to a huge diversity of flora and fauna - including 147 species of mammals, more than 500 types of birds and 336 types of trees.
First-time visitors will doubtless be taken by the physical beauty of the country; but they will also be blown away by the range, quality and prices of food and drink - usually a big expense on any tour. All of the principal cities have restaurants from Michelin-star standard through to those offering cheap-and-cheerful pub food. Johannesburg and Cape Town are particularly good, with a huge choice of style and price.
One of the great aesthetic successes of the post-apartheid years has been the flourishing of the wine industry. The old white Nationalist edifice ruled the industry with the same unsmiling severity with which it ruled the country, and the wine industry responded by producing overripe, overrated wines that were not nearly as good as those of its New World rivals, Australia and New Zealand.
With democratization came free access to the outside world, new ideas and new young winemakers. Today, South Africa’s wines match those of the Antipodes and, as World Cup visitors will discover, they are great value for money.
So, too, the hotels. Whereas once there were only formulaic chains offering poor food and lousy service, now there is a range of everything for everyone - from luxury boutique hotels favoured by international celebrities such as Elton John and Bono to 400-room properties that easily pass as affordable luxury. At least they are usually good value - indications are that rates will be high during the soccer championships. This usually happens during such big international events, but that doesn’t make it any more palatable.
This is an extraordinary country, one of the most physically beautiful I have visited and certainly one of the most fascinating politically and socially. For World Cup visitors who wish to look beyond the sporting field, there is a trip of a lifetime in store.
Getting there: Many airlines offer flights to South Africa but travel from Montreal would require a change of planes in New York or London, for example. Contact South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) or your travel agent.
For more information on South Africa, check out the country’s official tourism and travel website at www.southafrica.net.
The World Cup will run June 11 to July 11, and games will be played in nine cities, including Johannesburg, Durban, Nelspruit, Pretoria and Cape Town. For details: go to www.fifa.com.
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